Showing posts tagged Gown

Cat Valente’s dress gleamed like Versailles burning.“ ~ UrsulaV.

I’ve been keeping the photos of the custom Kambriel gown created in celebration of Catherynne M. Valente’s multiple Hugo award nominations, including one for “Silently and Very Fast” under wraps so she could premiere it the night of the awards, but now I can finally share!

The inspiration was a Space Princess ~ fittingly inspired by her book, combining both Italian & Japanese elements. In these photos, the gown appears to be all black and silver, but actually the glittery Italian scrollwork velvet used in two tiers of the skirt ruffles is filled with an Aurora Borealis iridescence of rainbow hues which reflect the light as it moves in person. 


Blurry, but shows the velvet’s shimmering multi-hued Aurora effect: 


Kimono-esque, dramatically flared sleeves made from sheer metallic Japanese mesh:


Like starlight in a blackened sky:


And best of all ~ Cat in the gown, looking absolutely radiant at the 2012 Hugos. 


Edit: ~ And she won w/SF Squeecast! So did this lovely & sinister gent named Neil for “The Doctor’s Wife”… :) 

You can see a complete list of all of the talented Hugo nominees & winners here: http://www.tor.com/blogs/2012/09/announcing-the-2012-hugo-award-winners
Thank you for capturing the moment Dmitri!


(Source: )

Let’s Go To Bed… The Bed Song Video shoot

One thing about me &  Amanda Palmer is we’re cut from a similar cloth when it comes to inspiration hitting sometimes without much if any warning, and saying a full-hearted *yes* to things others might see as far-fetched, impossible, impractical, etc… 

Such a time happened recently when I got an email from Amanda asking if I might be able to come build a gown made of bed sheets on set for a video they were filming in upstate NY in a week. Within the hour, I’d already sketched out a series of five dresses to build upon one another until it reached a grand conclusion, with each dress tying into a specific verse of the five verse song. At first, it seemed like it would need to basically be made in the film version of real time ~ almost like a stop motion design coming to life before your eyes; which seemed both exhilarating, and a huge honour to be entrusted with, but also like it really needed to be amazing since it didn’t seem there would be much else to the video other than Amanda, the piano, and the organically growing gown being created before everyone’s eyes.

In the next few days, things morphed, concepts evolved, and I got a clearer picture of what was being planned. There would be actors, sets, theatrical vignettes interspersed with Amanda playing the piano, laying her heart bare through song. I’d still likely need to create the look on set when Amanda & I could bounce ideas off of eachother in person, and I could wrap the fabric around her, but now I had the luxury to begin a bit of work in advance ~ with just two days to go before flying to NY!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

As soon as the plane landed in NYC, I was faced with this ~ the question of course being which kind of omen? I asked the universe for a sign, but in the meantime decided it would either be a good one, or at least a Zen-neutral one. 
Remember kids at home… you can’t have a proper omen without women!
image


The train ride upstate. Ahh, some blessed cool & quiet after the packed as sardines plane & overheated subway rides! Right before this photo was taken, I spotted a river otter blissfully floating on its back, along the Hudson. I’m pretty sure the otter was reminding me to stay in the moment. 
image

A-ha, a few hours later and the omen question’s answered! Thanks universe ;)
image



Here is the architectural jewel that the video was being filmed within at Bard College ~ our inspiring theatrical home away from home:
image


My one regret is that things were moving at such warp speed, I never got a photo of the finished gown I arrived on set with that first morning. It was a graceful backless dress, with spaghetti straps and countless bias flounces that framed the edges of the perimeter of a very long & flared train within a train within a train. The low-cut front bodice was detailed with the pintucking you’d find a few inches down from the edge of a pillowcase. Unfortunately, it was more bridal quality in its construction, polished, pretty… ~too~ pretty & finished, and the look we ended up going for needed to still be graceful and beautiful, but also somewhat rough and improvised. I needed to simplify things a lot & punk it up and build in some other details via some brave cutting, removing, slashing, and draping. 

image

This all transpired within the two hours between arriving on set at 8AM, and when filming would start at 10. After doing the initial fitting with Amanda and figuring out the aesthetic path to take, we probably had about an hour left. There was no time for wistfulness cutting layers off the original dress… just time for CREATING some imperfect perfection FAST. Actually, the original plan when Amanda first asked me to create a gown for the video ~was~ for me to just do it basically on set to begin with, so this wasn’t out of the range of possibility, I just took it upon myself to do some work on the couple of days I had before flying up to see if I couldn’t build a foundation for some of it in advance. Of course me being me, I completed one (the backless gown with the plethora of bias trained ruffles) *and* made a strapless bodice as another option to have on hand (a good thing since it worked perfectly to build the style we ended up going with upon!). I had to be really careful though because there were only two sets of sheets available in this exact colour, so if anything didn’t work, well, it ~had~ to work ;) At one point, I’d done a punk-couture job with some asymmetrical ruching, twisting, fabric manipulations and such, but then after quickly conferring with Amanda, we decided to loosen it up a bit, so I lightning-fast took some of that out and put new, slightly more symmetrical folds & gathers in. The additional fabric for the draping around the bodice top came from one of the sections of train I’d cut off the skirt…

Here we are about to start filming, and I’m “zsoozsing” the very last bits in back to adjust the fit on a gown that had COMPLETELY TRANSFORMED FROM ONE CREATION TO ANOTHER IN ABOUT AN HOUR:
image

Et voila, SUCCESS in record time! I snapped this photo of Amanda just seconds before filming began. I love the effect of the lighting and the softly crumpled texture of the fabric of the sheets… as if she’d just woken up and wrapped them around her in order to sit at the piano and sing to absolutely no one at all:
image


This was me the next morning, much more relaxed knowing at that point the dress was pretty much taking care of itself :)
image

I made fast friends with that dressform in the corner. Not sure I could have done all of the last second fabric manipulating & draping without her, so I’m so glad there was an actual workroom on site to use! Had I realized this in advance, I’d likely have travelled with a lot less “accoutrements”, but it’s always nice to have familiar tools on hand, especially when there’s no room for error and no time to spare…
image

Now is the time on Sprockets when we take a break! 
image

Later, in the dressing room with a copy of the not-yet-released cd peeking out from beneath the gown’s bodice:
image

Devil’s in the details. As one of the actresses (who just happened to be the most rocking 80 year old you ever met) said, “What this video needs is more of those legs!” ~
image

Glamour Squad! The fabulous Justin Tyme on hair/make-up & me with wardrobe, doing some last minute touch-ups before a shoot. The location was a timeless & romantic garden on the banks of the Hudson, with more butterflies in one place than I’d probably ever seen. 
image

As a matter of fact, I made this photo from blending one I took of Amanda, with one of the butterflies that just happened to land directly in front of my camera while I was taking pictures. I liked the vintage look of it in black and white, but the colours of the butterfly melded exceptionally well with the colours of her vintage kimono:
image

A little bit of Berlin on the Hudson:
image

Or was it Paris?
image

This was right around the time I told Amanda that it’s a pity she’s so shy ;)
image

Back on set. The schedule for day two of the shoot was set to start at 7:30 AM, and wrap at 3:30 AM. No one can ever accuse Amanda (or any other member of her seriously talented & dedicated team) of not working *hard*. This photo was taken around hour 17 of the first day:
image

After wrapping the video on day two (36 of 48 hours were spent on set), and getting about three hours of sleep, it was time to leave a still-slumbering farmhouse full of 15 or so souls nestled wherever they could find some space, and head to the train station back to NYC. Having arrived in the wee hours, I hadn’t yet seen this glorious tree, and it was hard to leave it so suddenly with it majestically beckoning in the early morning light:
image

I spotted this card in NYC before heading home from a trip that a week before, I never knew I’d be taking, and think it sums everything up perfectly:
image


image


Be Adventurous,
~ Kambriel
@KambrielDesign ~ Kambriel.com ~ Etsy.com/shop/kambriel

I’m really not the Killing Type

Speaking of art books… I’ve been meaning to do a post about the gown I created for Amanda Palmer’s upcoming art book which is being unleashed into the world next month. With the art tour just wrapping up last week, I figure this would be a perfect time for a review of the whirlwind tour it went on alongside the dozens of other fantastic creations made as part of this “cd art book” that’s quite unlike any other.


Painted with Thread

A while back, Amanda sent a preview of her upcoming “Theatre is Evil” album & from this, I ended up creating a piece inspired by her song “The Killing Type”. It meant a lot to me that Amanda was open-minded to having me create a piece of wearable art for this project as I believe clothing & accessory designs can be every bit as artistic as a painting or sculpture. Afterall, they tend to originate as an illustration, sketch, painting… & end up as something created to be a three dimensional sculpture made to conform to a body, to be filled and given life from within ~ to live to tell a story whilst never uttering a single word. 

It all started out so innocently… well, sort of. Here is a progress shot of some of the pre-WWII (a nod to one of the song’s lyrics) lace I incorporated into the gown in it’s original, virginal white, along with a collection of freshly cleaned recycled bullet casings that came from a local shooting range (I took Q-tips to carefully remove all of the lead): 


But then something rather dreadful happened… (macabre aftermath of the fabrics I hand-dyed to achieve a bloody effect):


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From a mini-story I wrote that Amanda asked me to do for director Tim Pope: I envisioned a blood soaked gown, covered in a filmy layer of pale fabric to attempt to hide the blood a bit, and show some desperately clung to sense of innocence, but no matter how hard they tried, the secret hidden beneath the layers ultimately starts seeping through to the surface. This killer is ultimately a romantic sentimentalist ~ and the gown has been created from the final moments this person shared with their victims/beloved obsessions… The lace is from a pre-WWII wedding dress (perhaps once worn by the mother shown in the photograph they’d look at?), the feathers would have been carefully saved from the bird, and the bodice is decorated with spent bullet casings worn as though they were jewels.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Winging it all as I went along, I ended up utilizing a combination of hand dyed netting, vintage lace & velvet, recycled bullet casings, charmeuse, naturally shed & dyed feathers, pearlescent beads, and heirloom crochet to achieve the finished result shown in these preview shots. The bits of chain are all hand-linked from antique jump rings, connected to the crochet which I’d also dyed a sanguine hue. At one point, I started calling the gown “Bloody Mary”. The extra piece of tattered and dyed lace I’d wound around the neck which ended up looking like a blood-soaked, ethereal bandage of sorts, along with the fact that the gown ended up being shown in a series of art shows on headless dressforms just strengthened the ghostly feel:




Since the rest of the art for the book was more in the 2-dimensional realm & being shot in NYC, we needed to figure out how best to display it for the book. I put my thinking cap on, and here’s the incredibly atmospheric result ~ I love the vivid lusciously liquid feel of the red satin showing at the lower hem alongside the depth of detail coming through in the crimson lace:



Inspiration ~ √
Creation ~ √
Visual Capture ~ √
Now on to the Voyage…

Immediately after being photographed, the gown was shipped to NYC so it could be transported with the rest of the art to the first gallery show in Berlin! The art tour included stops in Berlin, London, Brooklyn, San Francisco, Los Angeles & Boston. I’d suggested in order to ease transporting things around that they might try crowdsourcing a dressform in the various cities, and sure enough, Amanda’s fans pulled through perfectly at each & every location. I rather enjoyed seeing the different styles of forms the gown was displayed upon in each of the different settings… and major thanks to SuperKate for doing such an exquisite & careful job with displaying it along the way.

So the first stop… June 12, BERLIN: 
An eerily haunting view of the traveling art show on its first stop in Berlin’s Platoon ~ thank you so much to Strangelfreak for the photo!:


Second stop… June 18, LONDON
What a wonderfully spacious venue ~ especially with those exposed brick walls. My gown seems rather appreciative of its excellent view for taking in all of the other art :) (photo by Marjorie): 



Full length view from Village Underground:


I love the “silent conversation” going on here (from Village Underground):
*Emily has since let me know this is her weighing up the possibilities of making off with the gown… it ~does~ look like it would fit ;)


Back across the ocean in Brooklyn! 
The magnificent, tentacular Walter Sickert whose raucously surreal art is also featured in the book & throughout the tour ~ you can see a wonderfully detailed in-depth post upon his own art here: http://www.sepiachord.com/index/?p=3270 My best guess in this shot is that he’d been debating whether to ask the gown to dance with him ~ to which I say, of course the answer is always yes!: 


After the exhibits/shows in Brooklyn, everything travelled on to San Francisco’s PublicWorks where a video interview was shot with Neil and Amanda, whilst a certain blood-soaked gown loomed eerily behind… Here’s a screenshot, but you can watch the full video here (with wonderful news about the “Sandman” prequel!): http://www.wired.com/video/latest-videos/latest/1815816633/exclusive-interview-amanda-palmer-and-neil-gaiman/1739858639001



BOSTON: After LA, everything came back home this past week to Boston’s Middle East club! Here you get more photos since I was actually there ;)

My favourite part about this crowd shot is how the entire room is swirling with activity, but our friend Cheryl is the perfect bit of darkly enchanting calm at the centre of the maelstrom: 


Come on Amanda, you know you really just want to try the dress on…




To that end, I made an appropriately unhinged “Killing Type” portrait of her in it: 


This is perhaps one of my favourite views of the gown ~ as seen from Massachusetts Avenue (another song on the album!). Something about the layers of everything going on with the reflections on the window and the view into the interior is what’s captivating to me. Note the man in the background caught in perpetual consumption of his beverage… It’s all about the contrasts:



Reunited with the gown after its transinternational/continental adventure ~ oh, the stories it could tell at this point!


Amanda & I together ~ afterwards I noticed we both had an inadvertently serendipitous shimmering gold & black Chinoiserie theme going on that night:



Amanda wearing her silk brocade Kambriel Midnight Bustle, posing next to the Kambriel Killing Type gown… META moment. :) I had no idea she’d be wearing the bustle that night and it was really touching to see her show up in it. 




Intense prelude to Amanda’s performance art of “The Killing Type”: 


“Who Killed Amanda Palmer?” Umm, yes… I ended up with the Killing Type/Trout Heart Replica (one of the most heart-rending songs on the album) knife at the end of the night since it was the last show of the tour ~ Thanks Amanda! She was giving away the “percussive props” at the end of the night to those who could tell her stories convincing her to give it to them (though I suspect she was just sweet and gave them to each person who asked regardless). Most of the props were plastic buckets, along with the wood cutting board used in a dramatic rendition of “Trout Heart Replica” for slicing a beet which represented the tiny, ruby red heart of a fish that humbly asked for just one more day… I asked her about the knife, not figuring it would be included along with the other items, but she said yes right away, so I repaid her with a terrifying story from my youth which tied in with it rather well. When I went to get the knife from her drummer @Quilken, he immediately asked, “Wow! What story did you have to tell to get the knife?!”. I re-told the story to him (it’s a personal one, but it was 1 AM and had been a very long day, so why not…) and afterward, he immediately went back to get the knife for me and even meticulously made a protective sheath for it out of double-layered tape. *Macquyver would be proud* 

Is it disturbing just how happy I am wielding it here?? Hilarity ensued when I was waiting behind a group of people who were in line to talk to Amanda so I could ask her to sign the knife before we left (she was wonderfully generous with her time by waiting around after the show and sitting and talking with each and every person for as long as they liked ~ I’d never seen that before at “a signing”, this was really more of an “interaction” ~ completely not-rushed, filled with genuine connections being made between people) and they turned around only to see me standing there with a big grin and an equally big knife! I’m pretty sure that’s the only time I’m going to be able to do that at a show and have it be ~perfectly o.k.~ ;)





blood & roses,
~ Kambriel

I’ve been wanting to share this ethereal gown I recently added to the Etsy shop, but a dear client immediately mentioned that she was dreaming of having it for her wedding, so I purposely kept quiet about it until she knew for certain in order to give her the best chance possible at making it her own.

Happily, it’s now reserved for her, but I still wanted to share it just because I really love how the pieces ~ some of which are from vintage materials I’ve collected through the years, for it all came together…